Asscher Cut Diamonds | Cut Guide & Ideal Proportions

Asscher Cut Diamonds | Cut Guide & Ideal Proportions

Asscher Cut Diamonds | Cut Guide & Ideal Proportions

Posted by Sharif Khan on 7th Jul 2018

Asscher Cut Diamond Buying Guide

asscher cut diamonds

Bottom Line Recommendations... 

  • Asscher diamonds are highly elegant and graceful; they are step cut with open facets as opposed to brilliant cut.
  • Given the open facets, it is recommended that you buy a high clarity grade Asscher cut.
  • In terms of color, D-F color are considered colorless, G is also a great color. Moreover, H and I color are great budget options if you don’t want to compromise overly on quality.
  • A length-to-width ratio of 1 to 1.05 is ideal.
  • While evaluating the cut, a depth of 60% to 68% and a table of 61% to 71% is recommended with tolerance of 1-2% up or down.
  • Avoid fluorescence in the D-G color range, up to medium blue is great in H and I color.
  • Buy a GIA or AGS graded loose diamond.
  • Here is list of the top best websites to buy diamonds online.

Sites like jamesallen.com can be very helpful in assessing Asscher cut diamonds because they have good 3D 360 40X Magnified Videos which can give you clear visuals of how diamonds look with different proportions. Try to play with their search filter and check out different diamonds so that you can get a clear sense of what might best be for you within a given budget range.

asscher cut proportions

Overview...

Aasscher cut diamond was once considered a revolutionary concept when it was created and named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company. However, it wasn't as exceptionally popular in the 19th century as it is today. Around 2002, Asscher cut diamonds began to make reappearance in part because the cut modifications provided the shape more brilliance than the traditional Asscher cut. Asscher cut diamonds radiate superb shine when you compare their facets to an ostensibly incessant hallway lined with reflective mirrors.

The modern Asscher cut diamond shares similar features as a square emerald cut. Both of them have smaller table, higher crown, and larger step facets. With proper positioning of the pavilion facets, you will notice that the Asscher cut diamond have nice concentric squares. These qualities often produce more brilliance in Asscher cut diamonds. The square shape of Asscher cut combined with the cropped corners gives the Asscher cut a unique octagonal shape. The diamond will maintain its shape within a square silhouette if placed in a four prong setting.

Analyzing Cut...

Below is a comprehensive summary of how to assess the cut of an Asscher cut diamond.

Depth %
  • Poor/Far: <52 or >80 / 52-80
  • Good: 57-59 / 71-74.5
  • Very Good: 58.8-70/67-70.1
  • Excellent: 61.3-67
  • Table %
  • Poor/Fair: <50 or >80/50-52.5 or 75.5-80
  • Good: 53-57/74
  • Very Good: 58-61/71
  • Excellent: 62-70
  • Culet
    • Poor/Fair: Very Large/Large
    • Good: Slightly large
    • Very Good: Medium/Very Small
    • Excellent: None
    Girdle
  • Poor/Fair: Ex. Thin – Ex. Thick
  • Good: Very thin - thick
  • Very Good: Very thin - slightly thick
  • Excellent: Very thin - slightly thick
  • Length to Width Ratio
  • Poor/Fair: >1.09 /1.07-1.09
  • Good: 1.05-1.06
  • Very Good: 1.00-1.04
  • Excellent: 1.00-1.04
  • James Allen

    The chart above serves as a general guideline when evaluating the cut of an Asscher cut diamond. The length to width ratio of 1.00 is considered the classic cut for a square shape in Asscher cut. However, slightly rectangular shapes do exist in Asscher cut diamonds and a ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. For that reason, every Petra Gems diamond includes length to width ratio, so our customers could make a rational decision when considering an Asscher cut diamond.

    Evaluating Color...

    Color is an important factor in Asscher cut diamonds. Priortize all 4Cs, but give special importance to clarity and color. 

    Just like evaluating the color in other diamond shapes, color in an Asscher cut diamond is also subjective. Our experience indicates that many buyers prefer the warmer colors over the cool colors due to the affordability factor. In the color spectrum, the warmer colors refer to G-I diamonds while the cool colors refer to D-F diamonds. The good side to that is the price premium for H and I color grade Asscher cut diamond would be lower.

    For more detailed information on the color of Asscher cut diamond, use the table below.

    < 0.50 Carat
  • Poor/Far: >M/ L-M
  • Good: I-K
  • Very Good: G-I
  • Excellent: D-G
  • 0.51 – 1.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: J-K / >L
  • Good: I
  • Very Good: H
  • Excellent: D-G
  • 1.0 – 2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: H-I / >I
  • Good: G
  • Very Good: D-F
  • Excellent: D-F
  • >2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: H-I / >I
  • Good: G-H
  • Very Good: D-F
  • Excellent: D-F
  • Flouro
  • Poor/Fair: Very Strong
  • Good: Strong
  • Very Good: Slightly Medium
  • Excellent: None

  • Choosing Clarity...

    Since Asscher cut diamonds have open facets, it is recommended to buy a slightly higher clarity Asscher cut diamond. Each of our customers have a unique standard for clarity and color. Some of our customers want a flawless diamond while others are perfectly comfortable with inclusions as long as they are not noticeable to the naked eye. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades, so you can use it to choose an Asscher cut diamond that will meet your expectations.

    SI1 would a great balance of price and appearance in an Asscher cut. You can also consider buying VS2 for a comparable choice.

    < 0.50 Carat
  • Poor/Far: >I1/ I1
  • Good: SI2
  • Very Good: SI1
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • 0.51 – 1.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2-I2 / > SI2
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS2-SI1
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • 1.0 – 2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2-I1 / >I1
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS2
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • >2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2 / >SI2
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS1-VS2
  • Excellent: FL-WS2

  • Suggested carat weight, cut, color and clarity of Asscher Cut Diamond for people with budget constraints...

    Below are summarized general guidelines for how to navigate the 4Cs within a tight budget. For more information, read this article on how to prioritize the 4Cs.

    Excellent Choice

    • At least 1.0 carats in Weight
    • Very Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
    • G or above in color
    • SI1 or above in clarity
    • No Florescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Very Good Choice

    • At least 0.90 carats in Weight
    • Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
    • H or above in Color
    • SI1 or above in Clarity
    • None, faint or medium blue florescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Good Choice

    • At least 0.80 Carats in Weight
    • Good to Very Good Polish and Symmetry
    • I or above in Color
    • SI1 or above in Clarity
    • None, faint or medium blue florescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring