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Asscher Cut Diamond: Cut, Color & Clarity Insights

Asscher Cut Diamond: Cut, Color & Clarity Insights

Asscher Cut Diamond: Cut, Color & Clarity Insights

Posted by Sharif Khan on 7th Aug 2022

Asscher Cut Diamond Buying Guide

Named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, Asscher cut was considered a revolutionary concept when it was created. While its popularity faded in the last century, Asscher cut diamonds are now considered a popular diamond shape. Demand for the shape particularly increased during early 2002, mostly because of cut modifications that gave the shape more brilliance. The open facets of Asscher cut diamonds create ostensibly incessant hallways lined with reflective mirrors, radiating elegant fire and brilliance.

The modern Asscher cut diamond shares similar features to a square emerald cut diamond, with both having a smaller table, a higher crown, and larger step facets. With proper positioning of the pavilion facets, an observer will notice that the Asscher cut diamond has lovely concentric squares. Besides, the square shape of the Asscher cut diamond, cropped corners give the cut a unique octagonal shape. Asscher cut will maintain its shape within a square silhouette if placed in a four-prong setting.

asscher cut diamonds

Key Takeaways:

  • Asscher diamonds are elegant and graceful. They are step-cut with open facets, unlike brilliant cut diamonds.
  • Given the open facets, we recommend buying a high clarity grade Asscher cut diamond.
  • In terms of color, D-F colors are considered colorless, while G is also a great color. Moreover, H and I colors are great budget options.
  • A length-to-width ratio of 1 to 1.05 is ideal.
  • While evaluating the cut, a depth of 60% to 68% and a table of 61% to 71% are recommended with a tolerance of 1-2% (up or down).
  • Avoid fluorescence in the D-G color range; up to medium blue is great in H and I color.
  • Buy a GIA or AGS-graded loose diamond.
  • Here is a list of the top best websites to buy diamonds online

Sites like jamesallen.com can be helpful in assessing the quality of Asscher cut diamonds because they have exceptional 3D 360 40X Magnified Videos with clear visuals for inspecting a diamond from all angles. When using the site, check James Allen's diamond search filter to compare several options before making a final purchase. 

asscher cut proportions

If you are working with a tight budget, consider lab-grown diamonds as an alternative. Besides James Allen, Brilliant Earth is a great company for buying lab diamonds. Check their inventory and engagement rings collection here

Analyzing Asscher Cut

Below is a comprehensive chart for assessing the cut of an Asscher cut diamond:

Depth %
  • Poor/Far: <52 or >80 / 52-80
  • Good: 57-59 / 71-74.5
  • Very Good: 58.8-70/67-70.1
  • Excellent: 61.3-67
  • Table %
  • Poor/Fair: <50 or >80/50-52.5 or 75.5-80
  • Good: 53-57/74
  • Very Good: 58-61/71
  • Excellent: 62-70
  • Culet
    • Poor/Fair: Very Large/Large
    • Good: Slightly large
    • Very Good: Medium/Very Small
    • Excellent: None
    Girdle
  • Poor/Fair: Ex. Thin – Ex. Thick
  • Good: Very thin - thick
  • Very Good: Very thin - slightly thick
  • Excellent: Very thin - slightly thick
  • Length to Width Ratio
  • Poor/Fair: >1.09 /1.07-1.09
  • Good: 1.05-1.06
  • Very Good: 1.00-1.04
  • Excellent: 1.00-1.04
  • James Allen

    The chart above serves as a general guideline when evaluating the cut of an Asscher cut diamond. For example, a 1.00 length-to-width ratio is considered classic for a square shape in the Asscher cut. While slightly rectangular shapes exist among Asscher cut diamonds, a ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. 

    In short, analyzing the length-to-width ratio of each Asscher cut diamond is important before making a purchase.

    Evaluating Asscher Color

    Color is a critical factor in Asscher cut diamonds. Like other diamond shapes, color in an Asscher cut diamond is subjective. Our experience indicates that many buyers prefer warmer colors over cooler ones due to affordability. In the color spectrum, the former (warmer colors) refer to G-I diamonds, whereas the latter (cooler colors) refer to D-F diamonds. On the positive side, the price premium for H and I  color-grade Asscher cut diamonds is significantly lower compared to D-E color diamonds.

    Fluorescence in a diamond is often a negative factor. However, it can be helpful to warmer color diamonds because blue is a complementary color yellow, making a diamond with a yellow hue appear whiter than its actual color grade. 

    For more detailed information on the color of an Asscher cut diamond, use the table below.

    < 0.50 Carat
  • Poor/Far: >M/ L-M
  • Good: I-K
  • Very Good: G-I
  • Excellent: D-G
  • 0.51 – 1.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: J-K / >L
  • Good: I
  • Very Good: H
  • Excellent: D-G
  • 1.0 – 2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: H-I / >I
  • Good: G
  • Very Good: D-F
  • Excellent: D-F
  • >2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: H-I / >I
  • Good: G-H
  • Very Good: D-F
  • Excellent: D-F
  • Flouro
  • Poor/Fair: Very Strong
  • Good: Strong
  • Very Good: Slightly Medium
  • Excellent: None
  • Choosing Asscher Clarity

    Since Asscher cut diamonds have open facets, we recommend buying a slightly higher clarity Asscher cut diamond. Our customers have a unique standard for clarity and color; some want a flawless diamond, while others are comfortable with inclusions if they are not noticeable to the naked eye. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Use the GIA or AGS grading report to select an Asscher cut diamond based on our guidance outlined in this article.

    SI1 would have an outstanding balance of price and appearance in an Asscher cut. However, we recommend VS2 or above in 1.5+ carat diamonds becuase Asscher cut diamonds have open facets. 

    < 0.50 Carat
  • Poor/Far: >I1/ I1
  • Good: SI2
  • Very Good: SI1
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • 0.51 – 1.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2-I2 / > SI2
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS2-SI1
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • 1.0 – 2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2-I1 / >I1
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS2
  • Excellent: FL-VS1
  • >2.0 Carat
  • Poor/Fair: SI2 / >SI2
  • Good: SI1
  • Very Good: VS1-VS2
  • Excellent: FL-WS2
  • Suggested carat weight, cut, color, and clarity of Asscher Cut Diamond for people with budget constraints

    Below are general guidelines for navigating the 4Cs within a tight budget. For more information, read this article on how to prioritize the 4Cs.

    Excellent Choice

    • At least 1.0 carats in Weight
    • Very Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
    • G or above in color
    • SI1 or above in clarity
    • No Fluorescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Very Good Choice

    • At least 0.90 carats in Weight
    • Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
    • H or above in Color
    • SI1 or above in Clarity
    • None, faint or medium blue fluorescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Good Choice

    • At least 0.80 Carats in Weight
    • Good to Very Good Polish and Symmetry
    • I or above in Color
    • SI1 or above in Clarity
    • None, faint or medium blue fluorescence
    • Length/width ratios: 1-1.04

    Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring