Cushion Cut Vs. Oval Cut

In a world full of beautiful princess and round cut diamonds, the quiet elegance of the oval cut and the cushion cut can often go unnoticed. The two latter diamonds have the distinction of having graced the heads of royalty. In fact, an oval stone is set at the front of the crown belonging to Queen Mother of the United Kingdom!

The oval cut diamonds have been in existence for centuries; however, the modern variation was only invented in the late 1950s. The designer of the original cut, Lazare Kaplan, was trying to improve the quality of diamonds dubbed worthless or flawed when in a twist of fate, he developed a different cut altogether. And since then the bursting brilliance, fire, and sparkle of oval cut diamonds have captured the heart of women and dazzled them into saying yes.

The cushion cut also has a long history of wowing diamond enthusiasts since its invention in the 1800s. With the invention of electricity and more cutting edge technology, the cut has undergone some much need changes while maintaining its renowned timeless and classy elegance. The pillow-like shape, coupled with rounded corners and beveled edges is a fan favorite among the vintage and antique set.

Given the illustrious clientele and the long history in the market, we would be remiss were we not to discuss how exactly the oval stacks up against the cushion cut.

In Terms of Cut...

The oval cut falls under the category of diamond cuts termed ‘brilliant cuts’; so called because the cut is designed to maximize on brilliance. An excellent cut will result in a beautiful stone with superb brilliance and fire. However, achieving a  good cut in an oval diamond is often unattainable. The stone has a complex and unique structure which requires superhuman precision to meet the precise standard parameters for an excellent cut. Given this difficulty, the cut quality should be determined by what you can see- sparkle, fire, and clarity. Watch out for the  bowtie effect caused by the uneven light distribution- magnified by a too shallow cut and absent in a too deep cut. The bowtie is the dark shape that stretches across the center of the crown. The effect is glaring in some stones and barely visible in others. An oval diamond that is cut well will have a tiny bowtie or none at all. Use  James Allen's 3D Video Technology with 40X Magnification to asses the diamond for large bowtie effects before buying it. 

Ideal Length to Width Ratio of 1.45

The lack of a bow tie effect in the cushion cut gives it a leg up over oval cut diamonds. Cushion cut diamonds come in various variations, but the cushion brilliant shines brightest. Its exceptional sparkle and fire are attributed to clear faceting and even better light dispersion. When observed from the top, a crisp, clear pattern is visible. It also has a larger face-up appearance because of the lower depth percentage. Admittedly, the cushion brilliant variation costs more but its fiery brilliance makes it worth every extra buck.

Hiding Imperfections...

Both the oval cut and the cushion brilliant are very good at hiding inclusions because of their unique shapes and superb brilliance. So, what does this imply? You can choose a lower  clarity grade and still get a diamond that is eye clean. Generally, an oval or cushion cut with clarity grade  SI1 and SI2 will have no visible imperfections. One should ensure they physically examine the stone or its accompanying magnified photos. GIA reports will only indicate the existence of flaws and not the location of the inclusions. If the imperfection is at the edge, it can easily be covered by an appropriate setting. Don’t be quick to rule them out.

Showing Color...

The exquisite faceting pattern of the cushion and oval cut makes them pretty good at hiding  diamond color. Which means you can choose a lower color grade and save up to improve on other qualities such as cut and clarity. In most cases, the difference in color grades is barely visible to the naked eye, but the difference in prices will be in hundreds of dollars. Nonetheless, if you want nothing but the best then go for the  D-F colorless grades which exhibit more sparkle and fire. Don’t shy off from going lower on the color scale and trying out a warmer tint. Just because everyone likes colorless doesn’t mean you have to; choose the color that appeals to you.

Maximizing Weight...

The main focus of both the cushion cut and oval cut is to maximize light performance rather than weight. That’s why the stones have such superb brilliance and fire. Which helps in distracting the eye from noticing the hidden weight in the pavilion. But because a significant percentage of the rough stone is discarded very little goes into making the final diamond. Manufacturers end up using more rough stone to meet a specific carat weight. Resulting in comparably higher prices charged per carat for oval and cushion cuts.

Picking a Setting...

Both the stones have excellent brilliance, and with the right setting, you can be sure that viewers will stop and notice. Given the diamond cuts have no vulnerable edges, a protective setting will be unnecessary. Pick a  ring setting designed to allow more light to reflect on its surfaces, such as a 4 prong or hallo setting. If the variation of the cushion is not as sparkly as you'd like, mount the stone on a halo setting and surround it with bright clear gems. It will make a world of difference on the overall appearance.

Which one will it be?...

Choosing between the oval cut and the cushion cut will admittedly be a difficult choice. Both the diamonds hold up their own in the brilliance and unique shape department. They are also very good at hiding color and masking imperfections such that you can go for SI1 clarity and G color and still get a colorless diamond. Nonetheless, there are some notable differences; the cushion cut stones have a little more shine in their brilliance. And when an oval cut and a cushion cut stone of similar carat weight are placed side to side, the oval diamond will have a larger face-up appearance. Even so, the bowtie effect is only present in oval cut diamonds, which makes your choice even more difficult. You must admit, though, it’s a good problem to have.

Good luck!