Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval cut diamonds are full of fire and brilliance, and their elongated shapes make them look big in each carat weight. Additionally, a modified-brilliant cut gives the shape an exceptional fire and brilliance like round cut diamonds.

Buying a dull-looking oval cut diamond can be avoided by assessing the quality of its cut, clarity and color, among other factors. 

When considering this alluring shape, carefully review the following seven factors and our recommended cut proportions before making a final purchase.

Oval Cut Diamonds Highlights

• According to Blue Nile and James Allen (two of our favorite online retailers), oval cut diamonds were in the second tier of most popular diamond shapes in 2022, right next to traditional round cut diamonds. To buy the most recent cut shape, look for an oval cut with faceting like the one shown in image four below.
• In terms of cut, a depth of 55-63% and a table of 52-63% are preferred. Follow our chart below carefully while analyzing the cut of an oval diamond.
• The bow-tie effect is a critical factor to consider, and if an oval cut diamond is poorly cut, it will have a large bow-tie effect. Review our instructions below and assess each diamond carefully for its bow-tie effect before placing an order online.
• Oval cut diamonds have an amazing spread and surface size (they look big), but you must buy a diamond with the right length-to-width ratio. Oval cut diamonds in the range of 1.38%-1.55% ratio are perfect, depending on how round or elongated you want the diamond to look. See our chart below for details.
• When comparing different oval cut diamonds within a given budget range, if you do not have budget constraints and want a high-quality stone, look for something like this (option 1). If you are trying to maximize carat weight within your budget without compromising on quality, look for an oval cut diamond within this range (option 2). If you do not mind compromising more on the other 3Cs (cut, color, clarity) to maximize the carat weight (as long as the stone is eye-clean), something like this might work for you (option 3). Finally, if you want to compromise on one C to maximize on the other 3Cs, compromise on color while prioritizing clarity and cut (option 4).
• Always buy an oval cut diamond that is either graded by GIA or AGS.
• Fluorescence is a negative factor in oval cut diamonds. Avoiding fluorescence in D-E color diamonds is best, while faint is okay in F to G color diamonds, and medium blue is acceptable in H and I color diamonds. 
• Check our guide lab-created diamonds as an alternative to natural diamonds for buyers with budget constraints. 

Oval Cut Diamond Proportions

Oval Length-to-Width Ratios

Background on Oval Cut Diamonds

While oval cut diamonds have existed for centuries, Lazare Kaplan perfected its cut in the 1960s. These luminous gems are different from your day-to-day diamond shapes as they possess the fire and brilliance of a round cut diamond. This shape is cut into a perfectly symmetrical design, making it an ideal choice for individuals who like round diamonds but desire something more distinct.

Like other fancy diamond shapes, preferences of an oval cut diamond also vary by length-to-width ratios of the cut. A classic oval cut diamond will have a length-to-width ratio of 1.50 or in the approximate range of 1.36-1.60. This range stretches out the outline enough to be different from a round cut. If the elongation is too long, the cut will look like a marquise cut.

The "bow-tie effect" is present in almost all oval, marquis, and pear cut diamonds. Since it carries importance in analyzing an oval cut diamond, please refer to our post on the effect of bow-tie on fancy cut diamonds for more information. In our opinion, a small "bow-tie effect" is a plus for an oval cut diamond. Likewise, please avoid a large "bow-tie effect" because it indicates that the diamond has been cut poorly.

Here is a list of our top vendors for loose diamonds and engagement rings to consider.

Analyzing the Cut in Oval Diamonds

Hint: Use tools like James Allen's Video 3D 360 Degree 40X Magnified Technology to compare different diamonds and understand the effect of proportions on their cut and shape. It can also help in figuring out the optimal length-to-width ratio for you.

The chart above serves as a general guideline when evaluating the cut of an oval cut diamond. A classic oval diamond would have a length-to-width ratio of 1.50. However, deciding the right length-to-width ratio often depends on personal preference/taste (we love the 1.40 to 1.55 ranges).

A GIA graded report includes precise measurements that be used to calculate the length-to-width ratio of an oval cut diamond (simply divide the length by width to get the right ratio). 

When it comes to the shape of the diamond, buy one with similar facets as the middle one in the image below (check the GIA report for its cutting style). The styles on the left and right are older versions, and the one in the middle is the modern modified brilliant cut. It has 57-58 facets, just like a round brilliant cut would have, and will give the best brilliance/fire.

Evaluating Color in Oval Diamonds

Color is a critical C when considering oval cut diamonds. Therefore, prioritize color after the cut for optimal brilliance. Aim for a D-F color oval cut diamond if you do not have significant budget constraints. However, G is also a great color and is not too far off from the colorless range as far as the beauty of the stone is concerned. H and I are good budget options. The good side to H and I color diamonds is that the price premium for these stones is much lower.

For a more detailed analysis of color in oval cut diamonds, use the table below as a reference.

Ideal Length-to-Width Ratio of 1.45

Understanding Clarity in Oval Diamonds

Choose an oval cut diamond that meets your standards in terms of clarity. Each buyer has a unique take on the clarity grade of a diamond. Some want a flawless diamond, while others are perfectly comfortable with some inclusions as long as the diamond is eye clean.

GIA is the best in terms of consistently and accurately grading diamond clarity. Most SI1 diamonds in the 1-1.3 carat range are eye clean, while it is generally recommended to consider VS2 in diamonds above 1.5 carats in weight.

The chart below is a general guide for evaluating clarity in oval diamonds.

Prioritizing the 4Cs in Oval Cut Diamonds

Over the last decade, our clients prioritized and compromised on the 4Cs in the following manner:

Scenario 1: Quality was their primary concern. They would go for the best of the 4Cs in each given carat weight range in this option. Any diamond above 1 carat, F, VS1, excellent cut, no fluorescence, and GIA/AGS graded would qualify under this scenario.

Scenario 2: Both quality and size were essential to our clients. Under this option, they were willing to compromise on quality slightly to get a bigger diamond. They would go for a 1.5 carat, SI1/VS2, G/H color, very good to excellent cut, up to medium blue fluorescence, and GIA or AGS graded diamonds. These are still high-quality and premium-grade diamonds.

Scenario 3: They were willing to compromise on the 3Cs to get a bigger stone as long as the stone was still eye clean and had enough brilliance. Under this option, they would go for, say, a 2-carat diamond that would be I/J color, SI1/SI2 clarity, up to strong blue fluorescence, very good to ideal proportions, and GIA/AGS graded. If you go for this option, ensure you understand how to assess the clarity of a diamond well. Some inclusions, such as large black crystals, should be avoided in low clarity grades as they can be visible in SI1/SI2 range if present.

Scenario 4: Our clients would compromise on 1C heavily to maximize the 3Cs. In this case, we recommend you compromise on the color and prioritize clarity and cut. While you will get a slightly warmer color diamond, it will still have fire and sparkle. A good option would be a VVS2, L, medium to strong blue fluorescence with ideal proportions. You can even go for IGI or HRD grading labs in these ranges since most reputable labs consistently grade diamonds with lower quality. It is just that they are inconsistent in grading high-quality diamonds as strictly as GIA.

Budgeting for Oval Cut Diamonds

Below is a list of the suggested carat weight, cut, color, and clarity of Oval Cut Diamonds for people on a tight budget.

Excellent Choice

• At least 1.2 Carat in Weight
• Very Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
• G or above in color
• SI1 or above in clarity
• No Fluorescence
• Length/width ratios: 1.36 - 1.58

Very Good Choice:

• At least 1 Carat in Weight
• Good to Excellent Polish and Symmetry
• H or above in Color
• SI1 or above in Clarity
• None, faint or medium blue fluorescence
• Length/width ratios: 1.36 - 1.58

Good Choice:

• At least 0.90 Carats in Weight
• Good to Very Good Polish and Symmetry
• I or above in Color
• SI1 or above in Clarity
• None, faint or medium blue fluorescence
• Length/width ratios: 1.36 - 1.58

Clarifying Key Questions About Oval Cut Diamonds

Are oval cut diamonds popular?

After round cut diamonds, oval diamonds have emerged as the most popular shapes lately. They are trendy among shoppers who like round diamonds but want something different.

What about the size of oval cut diamonds compared to round cut diamonds?

Oval cut diamonds have a big surface size. Since they are more elongated, they have a bigger surface size in mm than round diamonds.

Do oval cut diamonds sparkle the same as round diamonds?

While rounds are the king of sparkle and scintillation because of modern cutting techniques, oval cut diamonds are the queen. They stand second in sparkle to round diamonds and have similar brilliant faceting that qualifies the diamond as a modified brilliant cut.

What about the bow-tie effect in oval cut diamonds?

The bow tie is an issue that can affect oval cut diamonds negatively. Thoroughly read our bow-tie guide and clarify with the retailer about the bow-tie effect before buying an oval cut diamond. If a stone is cut poorly with uneven proportions, it will have a large bow tie—a sign of a poor cut.

What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for oval cut diamonds?

1.3 to 1.6 is a good range. Depending on how roundish you want the stone to look, anything between this range will do, though our preferred range is 1.4-1.55.

Check our loose diamonds page for recommendations for the best places to buy oval cut diamonds.