When grading a diamond, there are a few things that you
need to examine. These are often referred to as the four Cs. They are:
- Cut
- Color
- Clarity
- Carat or carat
weight
The four Cs is a concept developed by the GIA, professionally
known as the Gemological Institute of America. This not-for-profit organization
was founded in the 1930s and has since developed a standardized method for
grading diamonds. Their methods have been world renowned because their
evaluation techniques are fair, accurate, and reliable regardless of the value
of the diamond or its location. Let us take some time to examine what each of
the four Cs represents.
The Cut
Many experts believe the cut is one of the most important
factors when grading a diamond, although it is the most difficult to quantify.
That is because the cut directly affects how shiny or brilliant the diamond
appears. Who would want to buy a diamond that is not brilliant and
spectacular in appearance?
When the term cut is used, this refers to more than the
shape of the diamond itself. Popular shapes include round, square, heart, oval,
and triangular. On the contrary, the diamond’s cut indicates its proportions,
how symmetrical it is, and how well the stone is polished.
When a diamond is cut well, it will be evident in three
main ways:
- The
Scintillation - The diamond will sparkle when a light is shined upon it
- The Brilliance
– The diamond will shine brilliantly and reflect a bright, white light
from within and on its surface
- The Fire – The
diamond will also reflect a visible spectrum of colors at certain angles
Remember that diamonds are from humble beginnings, first
just rough stone-like formations. The diamond cutter must carefully examine the
stone to devise the best way to cut the stone to highlight its beauty and
maintain its carat weight.
The GIA scale for evaluating the cut of a diamond consists
of five tiers. This scale ranges from excellent to poor. It goes without saying
that diamonds graded as excellent would be the most brilliant. The GIA uses several
measurements, such as the crown height and total depth, to assess the cut of
each diamond.
Color
Color is believed to be the second most important factor
when grading a diamond. The ideal diamond should be luminescent and crystal
clear. Icy-white, transparent diamonds will fetch a much higher price than
those with an obvious tint of color.
The GIA has determined that the color of a diamond can
be graded on a scale from D to Z. Diamonds with the least amount of color will
be graded as a D. Diamonds with obvious tints of brown or yellow will be graded
as or near category Z. Diamonds which are labeled grades D to H should be
colorless or near-colorless to the naked eye.
If the diamond has already been attached to a ring or
another type of jewelry, note that it may reflect some color from the ring.
This is especially so in the case of gold jewelry, which often gives diamonds a
slightly yellow appearance.
The diamonds are graded this way because the presence of a
yellow or brown tint significantly reduces their ability to reflect the
brilliance or the fire that we have come to expect from our diamonds. These
diamonds thus fetch a lower price because while they are beautiful in their own
unique way, they will appear relatively dull or cloudy.
Clarity
The clarity of the diamond refers
to whether there are any inclusions or flaws in the diamond. The GIA scale for
the clarity of a diamond ranges from flawless to I3. There are 11 categories on
this scale.
A flawless diamond has no inclusions or flaws even when examined
up to 10 times the normal magnification or 10x loupe. Only an experienced gemologist would
be able to detect these minute flaws.
When the inclusion or flaw is not visible to the naked eye,
the diamond is referred to as an ‘eye clean’ diamond. These are among the
rarest of all diamonds. Less than 1% of the diamonds on Earth fall into this
category.
A diamond with a grade of I3 has obvious flaws, which can
even be seen with the naked eye. These flaws can include shards of other stones
or scratches that might have occurred when the diamond was cut or polished.
Stones at the lower end of the scale are much easier to
find. However, you need to examine your diamonds carefully before purchasing.
These flaws or inclusions may detract from the beauty of the ring. Also, two
stones with the same rating may have completely different flaws.
Just as no two diamonds are the same, no two inclusions are
the same. You must examine the diamonds carefully to determine which flaw is
more obvious.
Carat Weight
The carat weight is the most popular method to grade a
diamond. When someone brags about their diamond jewelry, they quote the carat first. They are unlikely to state anything about its cut or lack of flaws
readily. That is why this is such an integral aspect of determining the grade
of a diamond.
Firstly, it should be noted that this refers to the actual
weight of the diamond and not its size. However, the size of the diamond does
have an incredible influence on the carat weight. Long ago, jewelers relied on
the relatively uniform-sized beans of a locust tree, known as carobs, to
determine the weight of a diamond. Many believe that this was how the weight of
the diamond came to be measured in carats.
Regardless of how accurate that measure was, the carat
became synonymous with diamonds and precious metals like gold. However, when
the term carat is used in reference to gold, it describes the purity of the
gold.
Today, we have developed much more reliable means to
standardize the weight of diamonds. Sadly though, many do not believe that the
carat weight should have much bearing on the value of a diamond. This could not
be farther from the truth.
While diamonds are valued more for their brilliance than
their weight, the carat weight of the diamond can be used to differentiate two
diamonds of similar cut, clarity, and color. The diamond with more carat weight
will fetch a higher price.
Also, as mentioned earlier, the carat weight is often
determined by the size of the diamond. Larger diamonds provide a greater
surface area for white and colored light to be reflected. Larger diamonds may
thus appear more brilliant than smaller diamonds of a similar grade.
Larger diamonds often tend to be much more expensive than
smaller diamonds, even when of inferior quality. That is because larger
diamonds are cut from larger rough stones. These are rare and hard to find when
searching for natural diamonds instead of lab-grown. The
rarity of these diamonds thus allows jewelers to demand a higher price.
Many people are tempted to compromise on the cut of the diamond
simply to get a higher carat weight. They would prefer the prestige of saying
they have a one or 2-carat ring. Please do not make this mistake. Your friends
and relatives will be far more impressed by a smaller diamond that is cut in a
way to show off the best of its brilliance than a larger diamond that simply
does not shine.
Now that all this has been said, you may still wonder how
to choose the best diamond. Please allow me to provide a few simple
suggestions.
